March 9, 2008
Some people expressed interest in my other car, a ’71 280S (W108) that has gotten a OM617 and five-speed manual transplanted into. Here’s a few relevant pictures, they are not of the best quality but it’s quite hard to take decent pictures down in the engine compartment.
I bought the car this way, and haven’t done the conversion myself.
First, a overview
Close-up of the engine, two pictures. This is a OM617.910 (“240D 3.0”, NA), that was installed in W115 75-76-models. It has a more rounded intake manifold, as seen, and the oil filter housing is located differently than later OM617’s. Note that original air filter housing has been used, and radiator/oil cooler are also original.
Passenger side engine mounting arm, this is probably the W115-arm that was included with the engine. The rubber piece is very similar to those in W123, maybe it’s from one.
Drivers side, appears also be the arm from W115, and rubber from god knows where.
Two interior shots, one of the shifter (from a W123?) and one of the gorilla knob.
Some of the pictures hints quite a lot of rust. Yes there are rust on visible spots, but the whole underbody is very clean and newly welded where needed. Also the interior is horrible, it’s missing pieces and seats are torn, I’m going to get a whole interior from a spare parts car and swap that in, whenever time permits.
July 15, 2007
I don’t know if this is a common problem or not but I’d imagine so.
After 40 years of slamming the door.. open, the door check gets its work-out and eventually stretches and doesn’t stop the door soon enough to prevent it from hitting the fender.
Here’s what’s happening, door hits the fender at the circle and gets dented. Anyone can tell this is no good..
The proper way to solve this problem is of course to replace the door check. But you might have problems finding one or just plain want to fix it now. There’s a quick and dirty fix for this problem though and it’s to adjust the door check to stop the door sooner.
Begin with disassembling the door interior. This is very easy.
Start with the lock knob, turn counterclockwise to unscrew it.
Lift off the interior panel mounted topmost, it comes straight off if you lift it upwards. It’s mounted with a few tabs and it’s easy to pull off.
Remove the plastic covers on the vent window knob and the window crank, and pry away the plastic cup behind the door release handle. This is easiest done with a very small screwdriver, be careful not to dent the plastic.
Underneath these you’ll find some screws, unscrew them and the knobs come off. While taking off the door release handle piece you have to pull the handle to get the piece off.
Loosen the door handle, it’s fastened with two screws from underneath
Now you can take off the entire door panel, it’s mounted with tabs on both sides so work your way from top to bottom, take one side at a time.
You can now visually inspect the door check mounting. If yours is as bad as mine it will look something like this. The door check has widened the mounting hole from repeated violent openings and thus has slid quite a bit forward. Since the bolts facing forward still are trying to do their job, to keep the door check at proper place, the door check assembly got bent at the front end. Now, the easiest solution that comes up to mind is to bend it back to original shape, but please don’t attempt this. The door check is a single-piece aluminium casting and aluminium is not friendly for repeated bending, it will break if you try to bend it back to shape.
Take off the door check piece by loosing the single nut and the two bolts. Don’t forget to pull the pin that attaches it to the A-pillar.
It’s time to modify the door check a bit now. Drilling small holes (4mm or something of that size), tap them for your favorite screw size and insert screws into the holes. Please see picture, it should be quite self-explaining. You can see the new screws installed and how they prevent the door check to go all the way and thus your door won’t open too wide now. If you’re unshure which length is appropriate for the screws you can begin with short ones and see if the door check works with them, if the problem still persist use longer screws.
Voilá, problem solved. Install the door check, the door panel and the handles & knobs and you’re done. No more risk of denting your door!
This entire procedure took me about 30 minutes to do. If you find this guide useful please drop a thumbs-up line or declare me a total idiot.
May 20, 2007
I didn’t mention this before but as the car sat in it’s previous location it experienced a slight mishap. There was a water leak for a week, with water running down from the concrete ceiling, dripping limestone all over my car (note: of all cars in that garage only Franz was affected..). Hadn’t given this much thought until it was time to put the hood on. Oh the humanity, this took me an entire day to clean up with rags and excessive spraying of limestone removing chemicals.
This is what it looked like..
Not only was the hood affected, the passenger door and much of the front was covered in this mess to. It’s all gone now though. 🙂